Saturday, June 30, 2012
Tracking Progress Across Spain
I thought it might be interesting to have a visual aid to help track our progress across the country. I found this neat map and was glad to see that it had most of the towns we've stayed in labeled.
We began in Burgos and then stayed in a few small towns before getting to our next large stop, Frómista. A few more nights and then we hit Carrion de Los Condes, then even more days of walking before we decided to have a short day and stay in Sahagún. There we were able to spend the afternoon exploring the town and relaxing before taking off for El Burgo Ranero, where we are staying tonight.
Tomorrow we will be in Mansilla de las Mulas (and will be stocking up on food for the Euro Cup final!). Before continuing on to León the next day.
We began in Burgos and then stayed in a few small towns before getting to our next large stop, Frómista. A few more nights and then we hit Carrion de Los Condes, then even more days of walking before we decided to have a short day and stay in Sahagún. There we were able to spend the afternoon exploring the town and relaxing before taking off for El Burgo Ranero, where we are staying tonight.
Tomorrow we will be in Mansilla de las Mulas (and will be stocking up on food for the Euro Cup final!). Before continuing on to León the next day.
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Rabé de las Calzadas to Carrion de los Condes
I am sore, sunburnt and ready to fall asleep at any second. The 17-21 kilometer walk we take everyday is incredibly hot with temperatures regularly over 100 degrees and no shade for hours. But there has not been one second where I wished I hadn't come. To be able to look up and see the multi-colored fields and steady windmills in every direction and at every moment is truly something special.
Since leaving the tiny town of Rabé, we have stayed the night in a few other small towns, though none of them nearly as pretty. Tonight we are in the largest town since Burgos: Carrion de los Condes. Like all the others it has beautiful old churches, brick buildings and cafés lining both sides of the sidewalk. We are actually staying in a convent tonight. We arrived fairly early today, as we began walking at 6 to avoid heat, but when we arrived two other albergues we checked were already full. It was a relief to find somewhere to stay despite the rather dismal exterior. However, after discovering there was wifi, everyone was immediately won over. The nuns told us about a concert happening at 7 nearby that was followed by a pilgrim mass at 8. But she also added on that the Spain-Portugal fútbol match began at 8:45 so we might have to "leave mass early."
We have been going out for dinner every night, but tonight we ended up getting fresh baguettes, local cheeses and sausage and some fruit to snack on while we watched the game. Personally, I love eating like this. When we finish walking for the day we sit down and stuff our faces with as much delicious food as we can manage. We then have several hours to nap, take showers, call home and explore our surroundings. Instead of going back out after a long day it is fun to simply go to the local market and get regional specialties that look particularly appealing.
While there are many little quirks that are very different over here, my favorite is the fact that drinks are always served in glass bottles. Everything from plain water to Coke to sparkling lemonade tastes much better coming from glass instead of plastic or metal.
Buen Camino
Since leaving the tiny town of Rabé, we have stayed the night in a few other small towns, though none of them nearly as pretty. Tonight we are in the largest town since Burgos: Carrion de los Condes. Like all the others it has beautiful old churches, brick buildings and cafés lining both sides of the sidewalk. We are actually staying in a convent tonight. We arrived fairly early today, as we began walking at 6 to avoid heat, but when we arrived two other albergues we checked were already full. It was a relief to find somewhere to stay despite the rather dismal exterior. However, after discovering there was wifi, everyone was immediately won over. The nuns told us about a concert happening at 7 nearby that was followed by a pilgrim mass at 8. But she also added on that the Spain-Portugal fútbol match began at 8:45 so we might have to "leave mass early."
We have been going out for dinner every night, but tonight we ended up getting fresh baguettes, local cheeses and sausage and some fruit to snack on while we watched the game. Personally, I love eating like this. When we finish walking for the day we sit down and stuff our faces with as much delicious food as we can manage. We then have several hours to nap, take showers, call home and explore our surroundings. Instead of going back out after a long day it is fun to simply go to the local market and get regional specialties that look particularly appealing.
While there are many little quirks that are very different over here, my favorite is the fact that drinks are always served in glass bottles. Everything from plain water to Coke to sparkling lemonade tastes much better coming from glass instead of plastic or metal.
Buen Camino
Saturday, June 23, 2012
Burgos & the Beginning of the Camino
After some transportation complications we left Madrid yesterday, half of us at 12 and the other half at 1. We took a three hour bus ride north to Burgos. I was exhausted but fought off sleep because I desperately wanted to see the amazing scenery throughout the ride. The landscape is always one that I associated more with Tuscany. The combination of the softly-rolling hills, yellow and green fields and tall, thin trees make it impossible to stop admiring it.
Burgos was also a beautiful city, but very different than Madrid. It was much smaller and quieter. However, last night kicked off a ten day festival. The entire city was out and about listening to live music, watching performances and watching spectacular fireworks. It was a fun experience and nice to be able to talk to the locals.
Our albergue there was only a couple years old and very nice. We met a group of fellow Americans as well as an Irish group. While I am thoroughly enjoying using my Spanish it is always a kind of relief to speak to someone else in English, especially since more than half of our group does not actually speak or understand Spanish.
We were able to do some exploring and eat lunch in the shadow of the grand cathedral in the main square. Then this morning we got up at about 6:30, packed our things and began our very long walk. It went by surprisingly quickly and was a short day. We only did 8 miles instead of what will be the normal 12-14.
Tonight our hostel is in a sleepy little town made up of all stone buildings with Spanish terra cotta rooftops, bright flowers overflowing from balconies, and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. Literally the only sounds are birds chirping. We have passed about four residents who were all reading the local paper outside of their homes. There is no other way to describe it besides wonderful. I truly feel as though I am on a movie set
Burgos was also a beautiful city, but very different than Madrid. It was much smaller and quieter. However, last night kicked off a ten day festival. The entire city was out and about listening to live music, watching performances and watching spectacular fireworks. It was a fun experience and nice to be able to talk to the locals.
Our albergue there was only a couple years old and very nice. We met a group of fellow Americans as well as an Irish group. While I am thoroughly enjoying using my Spanish it is always a kind of relief to speak to someone else in English, especially since more than half of our group does not actually speak or understand Spanish.
We were able to do some exploring and eat lunch in the shadow of the grand cathedral in the main square. Then this morning we got up at about 6:30, packed our things and began our very long walk. It went by surprisingly quickly and was a short day. We only did 8 miles instead of what will be the normal 12-14.
Tonight our hostel is in a sleepy little town made up of all stone buildings with Spanish terra cotta rooftops, bright flowers overflowing from balconies, and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. Literally the only sounds are birds chirping. We have passed about four residents who were all reading the local paper outside of their homes. There is no other way to describe it besides wonderful. I truly feel as though I am on a movie set
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Madrid!
Alright, I am in love. Madrid is the most interesting place I have ever been. Between all the outdoor cafés, interesting people and DELICIOUS food I am ready to stay forever. Most of the two full days were spent walking around the very pedestrian-friendly city, but we were also able to explore the Prado and Reina Sofia art museums. The Prado was particularly interesting, as we were able to see all of the paintings we very thoroughly studied in Spanish 3. Although I'm not much of a fan of modern art, the Reina Sofia had several Picasso and Dali paintings, which are always fun to see. The most impressive sight however was the royal palace all lit up at night. It looked a lot like Buckingham palace without the guards and crowds.
After being here for only a few days, I have already had more coffee than I had in my entire life previous to this trip. "Café con leche" has become a comforting phrase after walking all day. Not only has it been a lot of coffee, but the best coffee. Every cup, even the very inexpensive ones have been so much smoother and richer than any I had had before.
I have a small tradition of trying raspberry sorbet everywhere I go. A few days ago I was able to try some at a small, all organic stand. While Montréal still has the best raspberry sorbet, this was a fairly close second. I have also been able to try creamy sheep's milk ice cream, coffee (which is just as good as the cups of coffee) and perfectly sweet strawberry.
While the treats are of course my favorite part, all of the regular food has been just as tasty. Menus here are usually set up as either tapas or a two-plate meal. It is unlike the US because multiple types of food don't come on one plate. There is no fish, vegetable and rice: each is ordered as a separate course. Another thing that is difficult to get used to is the fact that lunch is the large and most important meal of the day, not dinner. We eat a large lunch around 2pm and then a small dinner between 8 and 9. It is an interesting change, and has been the hardest part to adjust to, as we all get hungry again and are ready to eat a large dinner.
I have very limited Internet access, but will continue posting as often as possible!
Until then,
Buen Camino
After being here for only a few days, I have already had more coffee than I had in my entire life previous to this trip. "Café con leche" has become a comforting phrase after walking all day. Not only has it been a lot of coffee, but the best coffee. Every cup, even the very inexpensive ones have been so much smoother and richer than any I had had before.
I have a small tradition of trying raspberry sorbet everywhere I go. A few days ago I was able to try some at a small, all organic stand. While Montréal still has the best raspberry sorbet, this was a fairly close second. I have also been able to try creamy sheep's milk ice cream, coffee (which is just as good as the cups of coffee) and perfectly sweet strawberry.
While the treats are of course my favorite part, all of the regular food has been just as tasty. Menus here are usually set up as either tapas or a two-plate meal. It is unlike the US because multiple types of food don't come on one plate. There is no fish, vegetable and rice: each is ordered as a separate course. Another thing that is difficult to get used to is the fact that lunch is the large and most important meal of the day, not dinner. We eat a large lunch around 2pm and then a small dinner between 8 and 9. It is an interesting change, and has been the hardest part to adjust to, as we all get hungry again and are ready to eat a large dinner.
I have very limited Internet access, but will continue posting as often as possible!
Until then,
Buen Camino
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